News: FDA Issues New Rules for Sunscreen Labeling

Via the Los Angeles Times:

“The agency has developed new protocols for testing the products’ effectiveness at blocking the sun’s damaging ultraviolet rays. Under the new guidelines, sunscreens may be labeled “broad spectrum” if they block UVB radiation and a percentage of UVA radiation. UVB is the major cause of sunburn, while both UVA and UVB cause early skin aging and skin cancer.

Products that are broad spectrum and have a sun protection factor of 15 or higher may be labeled to say that they reduce the risk of skin cancer and premature skin aging. Conversely, those that are not broad spectrum or that have an SPF lower than 15 will be required to carry a warning that they have not been shown to reduce such risks.

Sunscreens will no longer be able to claim to have a specific SPF above 50: The highest category now will be 50+. “We don’t have sufficient data to show that those with an SPF higher than 50 provide greater protection,” [said Dr. Janet Woodcock, director of the FDA’s Center for Drug Evaluation and Research].

Products will no longer be allowed to be labeled as sun blocks because there is no evidence that they block all the radiation in sunlight. Products also may no longer be labeled “waterproof” or “sweat proof.” Instead, they can only be called “water resistant,” and labels must state clearly how long such protection lasts — either 40 minutes or 80 minutes.

Labels with these new requirements must be in place by summer 2012, Woodcock said, but the agency hopes that companies will implement them sooner.

Woodcock also noted that there had been some concern about sunscreens containing nanoparticles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which block sunlight. Some critics have suggested that the extremely small particles can penetrate the skin and cause health problems.

But Woodcock said the agency had recently performed animal testing and found that the nanoparticles do not penetrate the skin. The findings are in agreement with studies that have been published in scientific journals, and there is currently no evidence to suggest that other chemicals commonly used in sunscreens are dangerous, she added.”



Whee! INGLOT Can Now Be Purchased Online!

For a long time, INGLOT was (for whatever reason) not selling its products online. But this morning I looked and GUESS WHAT!

No guesses? Really?

Yes, INGLOT can now be purchased online! I don’t know about you across-the-pond-ers or you across-the-49th-parallel-ers; I confess that I was in such a hurry to place my order that I didn’t check.

Warning: The swatches on the site don’t look anything like how the products look in real life, so you would be better off Googling for the color of swatch you want to see some real-life photos.

And shipping does NOT seem to be free, which, considering how much I paid, is, frankly, irritating.

Anyway, go forth and spend your hard-earned buckaroos! You can buy INGLOT online at:


Real or Fake? “Jihad Cosmo” Mixes Beauty with Machine Guns & Martyrdom

What? … you are probably saying. Wait. — What?

Yes, my little Maharanis of Mascara, my Sultanas of Shadow, my Begums of Blush. The media wing of Al-Qa’ida has apparently (and keep that word in mind) launched a new glossy periodical aimed at Muslim women, in which beauty tips (for women who are not allowed to show their faces, natch) are mixed in with etiquette advice and housekeeping tips … oh, and how to marry a jihadist.

The new magazine is called Al-shamika, which according to The Independent roughly means “The majestic woman,” and its first issue bears a small image of a burqa-clad woman on the cover, along with a MUCH LARGER image of machine guns.

Content includes “The Female Martyr,” “Marrying a Jihadist,” and “Meeting a Jihad Wife.” On the lighter side, there’s a housekeeping article entitled “Your House is Your Kingdom.” (Probably should read “Your House is Your Husband’s Kingdom,” but I digress.) The Independent also says this issue contains recipes for honey face masks and a warning against going outside alone “towelling too forcibly.”

There seems to be some disagreement over whether the magazine is actually “real” or not, in terms of it being a production of Al-Qa’ida. Slate, for instance, says no, but I’ll let you argue it out. In the meanwhile, want to read the table of contents? Of course you do.

(And if you read Arabic, and I hope someone does, you can see the scanned pages of the publication here. A summary from someone who can actually read it would be most welcome.)
Image (entitled “Smoking Lipstick”) via

Thursday Tossup: Er, Don’t Look Now, But It’s the Holidays Already; Sales

I’m not sure what percentage of this is cloud and what percentage is silver lining.

Promotional materials for Holiday 2010 collections are starting to show up. Yes, I mean Christmas/Hanukkah/Kwanzaa/New Year’s. THOSE holidays.

Cloud: Holy crap, we’re just starting the fall semester!

Silver lining: Hey, by the time that season actually rolls around, the semester will be over! Wheee!!!

I let the first one or two go by without thinking about it, but now Guerlain, Clinique, Stila, Bobbi Brown, Trish McEvoy, Lancome, Dior, Clarins, Paul & Joe, Givenchy, and elf promo photos are already floating around the web; details will be coming out soon on MAC’s “A Tartan Tale” holiday collection; NARS holiday photos were leaked and quickly pulled … yep, here we go. If you are hoping Santa brings you a red lipstick this year I think you will have to give him a very specific list as it looks like there will be several stunning options from different brands (especially Bobbi Brown, Givenchy, and Clarins). There’s a lot of red and grey/silver in this year’s collections, along with the traditional gold sparkle. Clinique is doing some lovely pinks and browns, which they do very well and which is a nice contrast to the other collections so far. I’m going to wait to post photos until the products are closer to being released, mostly because I feel like we haven’t even really gotten started with fall yet. But if you want to see pics, you just have to go a-Googling and you’ll find some.

Also, dangit. I really want this. From Stila’s holiday 2010 collection:


From today through 8/29, The Body Shop is offering 20% off with code FF10. Shipping free with purchases over $50. Apparently 10 out of 10 mermaids surveyed (!) prefer their eco-conscious rainforest hair care. (I don’t write the news, folks, I just report it.)

Boscia is having a Customer Appreciation Week through 9/1: 20% off with code THANKYOU at checkout.

Previously announced sales still in progress:

Stila is still offering 20% off through 8/31 with code DERBYDOLLS • SkinStore is offering 20% off most brands (their usual exclusions apply) through 9/7 with code SUN20


PSA: MAC Fabulous Felines Is Up Online


If you’ve been waiting breathlessly for the MAC Fabulous Felines collection, it’s up online at

The collection as a whole is not listed (yet) under “What’s New” but if you search for any of the products individually, you will find them. I picked up some Superslick eyeliner pens and will review as soon as they come in!

Here are the product names and collections (if you search for “Leopard,” you’ll get the eye products from the “Leopard Luxe” collection, but the blushes, pigments, lippies, etc. don’t seem to be linked in that way, at least not yet).

This is not actually my cat, although it looks a lot like him and it’s certainly a pose he would strike. Right now he is very busy sleeping and was not friendly to the idea of having his portrait done.

Burmese Beauty

Eye Shadow x 4 – Burmese Beauty ($36.00)

  • Prized Pale yellow beige (Satin) (Limited Edition)
  • Skintone 2 Dirty gold (Frost) (Limited Edition)
  • Burmese Beauty Frosted brown green (Lustre) (Limited Edition)
  • Showstopper Deep blackened brown (Matte) (Limited Edition)

Superslick Liquid Eye Liner ($17.50)

  • Desires & Devices Sparkling dark green (Permanent)
  • Defiantly Feline Chocolate brown with soft pearl (Permanent)
  • Treat Me Nice Emerald green with soft pearl (Permanent)

Pigment ($19.50)

  • Gold Stroke High-frosted tarnished gold (Frost) (Limited Edition)
  • Antique Green Turquoise green with green pearl (Frost) (Limited Edition)

Lipstick ($14.50)

  • Pet Me Please Frosted light dirty mauve (Frost) (Limited Edition)
  • To Pamper Creamy mid-tone taupe (Lustre) (Limited Edition)
  • Liquid Lurex Light yellow with green dazzle multipearl (Dazzle)
  • Kittenish Deep red berry (Cremesheen) (Limited Edition)

Lipglass ($14.50)

  • Spree Pink champagned taupe (Limited Edition)
  • Jealous Light dirty green with pearl (Limited Edition)
  • Fancy Cat Dark dirty brown with pearl (Limited Edition)

Cremestick Liner ($14.50)

  • Velvetella Blackened plum

Mineralize Blush ($21.00)

  • The Soft Meow Mid-tone golden bronze with soft pearl (Frost) (Limited Edition)

Palace Pedigreed

Eyeshadow x 4 – Palace Pedigreed

  • Courtly Frosted muted light pink beige (Satin) (Limited Edition)
  • Palace Pedigreed Deep berry with dark soft pink pearl (Satin) (Limited Edition)
  • Quite Spoiled Mid-tone neutral mauve (Satin) (Limited Edition)
  • Russian Blue Deep neutral grey (Matte) (Limited Edition)

Superslick Liquid Eye Liner

  • Nocturnal Bright silver pearl (Permanent)
  • Smoky Heir Dark blue violet with soft pearl (Permanent)
  • Signature Blue Dark navy with soft pearl (Permanent)


  • Mauvement Cool taupe with gold pearl (Frost) (Limited Edition)
  • Bloodline Dark dirty browned purple (Frost) (Limited Edition)


  • Superior Sheer lavender pink with dazzle pink pearl (Dazzle)
  • Of Royalty Light creamy blue pink (Cremesheen) (Limited Edition)
  • Aristo-Cat Mid-tone frosted purple mauve (Frost) (Limited Edition)
  • Cunning Dark berry (Frost) (Limited Edition)


  • Docile Dirty lavender with pearl (Limited Edition)
  • Best of Breed Light dirty blue with pearl (Limited Edition)
  • Lap of Luxury Dark eggplant with pearl (Limited Edition)

Cremestick Liner

  • Beurre Dirty Plum

Mineralize Blush

  • Pet Me Light yellow pink with soft pearl (Limited Edition)

Leopard Luxe

Eyeshadow x 4 – Leopard Luxe

  • Wild By Nature Mid-tone camel (Matte) (Limited Edition)
  • Style Predator Frosted mid-tone yellow orange (Veluxe Pearl) (Limited Edition)
  • Notoriety Dirty brown with gold pearl (Velvet) (Limited Edition)
  • Furiously Fabulous Frosted warm black (Veluxe Pearl) (Limited Edition)

Superslick Liquid Eye Liner

  • Pure Show Bright yellow-gold pearl (Permanent)
  • Marked for Glamour Mid-tone grey with soft pearl (Permanent)
  • On the Hunt True black (Permanent)


  • Lithe Frosted warm nude with gold pearl (Frost) (Limited Edition)
  • Old Gold High-frosted tarnished gold (Frost) (Permanent)


  • Out Minxed Light yellow gold (Glaze) (Limited Edition)
  • Drive Me Wild Mid-tone warm coral with gold pearl (Cremesheen) (Limited Edition)
  • Powerful Mid-tone bronze with dazzle multipearl (Dazzle) (Limited Edition)
  • The Prowl Creamy dark chocolate (Lustre) (Limited Edition)


  • A Quiet Roar Pale white gold (Limited Edition)
  • Schemer Mid-tone yellow camel with red and gold pearl (Limited Edition)
  • Wildly Refined Mid-tone coral with gold pearl (Limited Edition)

Cremestick Liner

  • Creamola Soft tan

Mineralize Blush

  • Utterly Game Warm peach with soft pearl (Frost) (Limited Edition)

LE cosmetics bags with faux leather trim are also available for each collection and retail for $25.

MAC/Rodarte: The Final Chapter? (Please Say Yes)

Hopefully this is the end to the whole business. As per MAC’s Facebook page:

M·A·C Decides Not to Ship M·A·C Rodarte Makeup Collection Out of Respect for Women & Girls of Juárez and their Families

by MAC Cosmetics on Monday, August 16, 2010 at 12:27pm

This decision will not impact M·A·C ‘s commitment to donate all of its projected profits from the collection to benefit the women and girls of Juarez.

Out of respect for the people of Mexico, the women and girls of Juarez and their families, as well as our M·A·C Mexican staff and colleagues, M·A·C has made the decision not to ship the M·A·C Rodarte limited edition makeup collection. This decision will have no impact on M·A·C’s commitment to donate all of its projected global profits from this collection to local and international groups that work to improve the lives of the women and girls of Juarez. We are currently conducting due diligence to ensure we donate to organizations with a proven record of directly supporting the women and girls of Juarez.

M·A·C and Rodarte are deeply and sincerely sorry and we apologize to everyone we offended. We have listened very closely to the feedback of concerned global citizens. We are doing our very best to right this wrong. The essence of M·A·C is to give back and care for the community and Rodarte is committed to using creativity for positive social change. We are grateful for the opportunity to use what we have learned to raise awareness on this important issue. 

Not Quite As Good As The Barbies, But Still … Mad Men Nail Polishes!

Nail Savvy by melloveschallah.Via Women’s Wear Daily:

AND NOW THE ‘MAD MEN’ NAIL POLISH: Janie Bryant must barely have time to take a breath these days. On top of working on the television show that’s all the rage, a book and a clothing collection for QVC, the “Mad Men” costume designer has partnered with Huntington Beach, Calif.-based nail polish brand Nailtini on four limited edition nail lacquers for fall. Bryant said she was inspired by fabrics used in cocktail dresses during the “Mad Men” era — velvets, satins and lamés — when creating the colors, which are a brown, gold, platinum and iridescent shade called Bourbon Satin, French 75, Deauville and Stinger, respectively. Michelle Toma Olson, founder of Nailtini, is hopeful Bryant will team up with Nailtini on a spring collection as well, but well before then the $14 fall polishes will hit CVS’ Beauty 360 and Duane Reade’s Look stores.”

Must see.


MAC/Rodarte Update: MAC to donate all global profits

meh by Яick Harris.As per, MAC has announced they’re donating all the profits from the controversial collaboration with Rodarte “to a newly created initiative to raise awareness and provide on-the-ground support to the women and girls in Juarez.”

Also, “MAC and Rodarte are deeply sorry that this makeup collection was so offensive to the people of Mexico and concerned global citizens.” They will be renaming the products and revising the marketing materials (which I assume means taking new photographs).

As per our previous discussion on the topic, I think that there are a lot of complex issues here that have been oversimplified, and I’m dismayed by the number of comments I see on other blogs that say “i wasn’t going to buy from this collection b4 but i am now since it all goes to Juarez!!!!1!!one!” Let’s be honest, girls, you wanted the products and now you can tell yourselves how positively virtuous you are for buying them. It’s not the consumerism I mind; it’s the hypocrisy. But then again, I guess that’s the interwebz.

Did MAC make the right decision? Probably — but the femicides in Juarez, while utterly abhorrent and reprehensible, are a symptom of a much larger, deeper, and more complex problem that will take much more than one cosmetic collection’s profits to solve. Until there is an end to the drug/gang war in Mexico and a major improvement in economic conditions, buying lipstick to help Juarez is like putting a Band-Aid on a gunshot wound. If you really want to help women in Juarez, forgo the lipstick and nail polish and donate all of that money directly to a reputable charitable organization with teeth. Write to your senators and representatives. And work to improve conditions for women in your own hometowns by donating time and money to local and national organizations.




Joan Holloway and Betty Draper Barbies.


Although, don’t you think they haven’t done Joan quite enough justice in the body department? Well, I guess it is still Barbie, after all, and so we have to have our lovely curvaceous-and-sexy-as-hell starlets reproportioned into impossible hourglasses with waists that not even Scarlett O’Hara could suck it in for.

On the other hand, Betty Draper looks … pretty much like Betty Draper. And January Jones is looking much better as a Barbie doll than she has in some of her real-life looks lately.

Also, what is with this disclaimer from Mattel?

“Production doll may vary from the photo shown above. Mattel reserves the right to modify the fashion/fabrics, sculpt, hair color/style, and accessories.”

What? The whole reason to buy the damn thing (for $75, no less — $75!!!!) is for the fashion/fabrics, sculpt, hair color/style, and accessories.

I also like how the men have their chests thrust forward. Very alpha-male. And has there ever been a silver-haired Barbie of either the male or female variety?

Of course I am also longing for a Mad Men Barbie Dream Office, with little martini glasses and tiny bottles of Scotch. And cigarettes. Lots of Barbie cigarettes. Unfortunately, these are not among the included accessories — which are a mixed bag. Don comes with a brown overcoat (with red lining), a faux leather briefcase, and a fedora. Betty comes with a comb, a coral lipstick (not a real one, so don’t get excited), and a compact with the letter “B” on it. Roger apparently has no accessories; I suppose that Barbie condoms would be too much to expect. And as for Joan — she comes with a purse, but apparently she also comes with some … er, other extras. says: “Armed with a pen necklace, she’s ready to dazzle in this stunning deep purple suit, brilliantly offset by a crimson silk collar. Her undergarments are equally stylish, and compliment [sic] her curvaceous figure.”

I really wish they wouldn’t have cheapened Joan (and, by extension, Christina Hendricks), by encouraging buyers to take her Barbie doll’s clothes off.

Anyway, if you want ’em, you can get ’em at for the low low price of $74.95. Each.


Monday Mix: MAC/Rodarte Controversy — UPDATED

I would be remiss in fulfilling part of the mission of the site if I didn’t mention the controversy over this September’s upcoming MAC/Rodarte collaboration (promo photo at left). I will put sales announcements in a separate post since it seems inappropriate to attach them to the end of this one.

Simply put, the situation is this: Rodarte (a fashion line run by two sisters, who are, if it matters, of Hispanic descent) is coming out with a Fall 2010 collection inspired by a trip they took through Texas last year, from El Paso to Marfa. They have said that the inspiration from the line and the palette of colors chosen came from the “ethereal” landscape of the area. Just over the US/Mexico border, within spitting distance of El Paso, is the city of Juarez, infamous for several related reasons. In the last two decades, Juarez has seen major growth as an industrial center, due largely to the 300+ factories (maquiladoras) that are located in and around the city. Mexican workers, many of them women, flocked to Juarez in hopes of getting jobs at these factories, where they work for long hours in poor conditions for little pay. With a population of 1.3 million, Juarez is also a major piece of contested turf in the Mexican drug war, and as such it is a city rife with violence: according to USA Today, 2,600 homicides occured there in 2009. (In comparison, New York City, with a population of over 8 million, saw only 461 homicides in 2009). Norte, the Juarez newspaper, has dubbed the city “the most violent zone in the world outside of declared war zones.” University of Texas El Paso professor Tony Payan was quoted in the Houston Chronicle as saying, “Having hitched itself successfully to American patterns of consumption, including drug consumption, [Juarez] has also become the one city where the crunch of the war on drugs and the worldwide financial crisis have had a very heavy impact… Tens of thousands of young men roam the streets with little or no hope of obtaining a job, of receiving drug treatment, of escaping the cycle of violence.”

While the vast majority of homicide victims in Juarez are men, there is also a noted pattern of female murder victims, many of whom are maquiladora workers on their way to or from the factories. The murders are usually preceded by rape or other violence, and have become known as an example of femicide. According to the National Organization for Women and Amnesty International, approximately 400 women are suspected to have become victims of femicide in Juarez since 1993. However, Amnesty International is elsewhere quoted as placing the number of recovered bodies at 800, which is indicative of the difficulty in pinning down down an exact number of deaths; many cases are not investigated and others are suspected of being covered up by police. There are also women who have gone missing and never been found (and who may number in the thousands).

MAC is putting out a cosmetics collection in conjunction with the Rodarte fall line, and the issue is that they have chosen some shade names that many people view as insensitive or offensive given the circumstances. The products spawning the greatest controversy seem to be the two nail lacquers in the collection, which are named “Juarez” and “Factory.”

In response to the controversy, which has been playing out in the usual internet carnage form on various and sundry websites and blogs, Rodarte made the following statement: “Our makeup collaboration with M·A·C developed from inspirations on a road trip that we took in Texas last year, from El Paso to Marfa.  The ethereal nature of this landscape influenced the creative development and desert palette of the collection. We are truly saddened about injustice in Juarez and it is a very important issue to us. The M·A·C collaboration was intended as a celebration of the beauty of the landscape and people in the areas that we traveled.”

MAC also made a statement, as follows: “We understand that product names in the M·A·C Rodarte collection have offended some of our consumers and fans.  This was never our intent and we are very sorry.  We are listening carefully to the comments posted and are grateful to those of you who have brought your concerns to the forefront of our attention.  M·A·C will give a portion of the proceeds from the M·A·C Rodarte collection to help those in need in Juarez. We are diligently investigating the best way to do this.  Please be assured that we will keep you posted on the details regarding our efforts.”

The majority of internet discussion of the subject on beauty blogs has been of the usual trainwreckery that you might expect. If you think we can do better, I welcome your thoughts.

UPDATE: Late on Monday MAC released the following statement (italics mine):

“We understand that product names in the M·A·C Rodarte collection have offended our consumers and fans. This was never our intent and we are very sorry. We continue to listen carefully to the comments we have received and have the following plans to address concerns:

  • We are committed to donating $100,000 to a non-profit organization that has a proven, successful track-record helping women in need and that can directly improve the lives of women in Juarez in a meaningful way.
  • We are changing the product names in the M·A·C Rodarte collection.

As we have done in the past, please be assured that we will communicate details regarding our progress in this matter.”

Rodarte released a statement as well:

“We recognize that the violence against women taking place in Juarez needs to be met with proactive action. We never intended to make light of this serious issue and we are truly sorry.

Helping to improve the conditions for women in Juarez is a priority for us and we are thankful for all the comments calling attention to the urgency of addressing this situation.”